The Vines at Carden Park
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
The Vines at Carden Park is a masterclass in contemporary British fine dining. It may have three AA Rosettes under its belt, but from start to finish, this is a fine dining experience a good two or three notches higher on the restaurant acclaim scale.
It’s the jewel in the crown of this sprawling Cheshire estate, and everything about the restaurant feels precision-honed. The lighting? Just right. The background music? Just right. And when it comes to the staff, the human side is very much present and correct.
There’s a lightness and joy to every interaction, effortlessly skipping from easy conversation to dramatic culinary displays. Everyone we meet, from maître d’ to waitress, shows pride in their work and deep knowledge – it’s a delight to witness.
We begin at the nearby bar, Goldie’s Lounge, where a couple of delicate nibbles set the scene. The Vines offer a highly-regarded tasting menu, but the à la carte menu is where you’ll find some of the showpiece dishes.
First, the Jerusalem artichoke royale. It’s a delicate and indulgent dish, full of contrasting tastes and textures: silky, earthy, tangy and with a light whisper of bergamot.
The guineafowl and foie gras terrine brings a refined French feel to the fields of Chester. Again, it’s a delicate but unfussy combination of clever flavours, never outré, simply bob on.
The whole Dover sole is filleted tableside, with meticulous care and a dash of showmanship from our host, Julian. It’s more than theatre, it’s an impressive display of skill: the fish is pristine, lightly crisped and flakes apart with the tiniest nudge of a fork.
It’s the ideal match for the bean cassoulet, boosted by foraged leek, fennel and vanilla purée that adds a subtle unexpected warmth. Finally, the parsley and caper dressing cuts through the lot with just the right amount of acidity.
The roast loin of Powys venison is a suitable send-off to the winter season. The meat is seared to a ruby red tenderness, contrasting with the slow-cooked intensity of the shoulder boudin.
King oyster mushrooms and turnip provide balance, but the plum jus is a glorious foil to the venison: sleek, deeply flavoured and just enough sweetness to take on the gaminess of the meat.
Need more spectacle? Baked Alaska might be old school but it’s always dramatic and always delicious. The Vines bring it into the present day with welcome flourishes such as flaming with limoncello and infusing the ice cream with lemon thyme. It manages to be both time-honoured and innovative, much like The Vines itself.
Out in the Cheshire countryside, The Vines at Carden Park feels like a retreat into culinary excellence. The food is some of the finest in the North, thanks to a menu that’s both inventive and rooted in modern British dining traditions. A truly special experience.
