MAYA Manchester
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
When it comes to city centre weekend vibes, it’s hard to beat Maya’s ground-floor bistro (not to be confused with the high-end restaurant on the underground level). This stylish destination has the lot – a prime location, charming staff and excellent quality food and drink.
The atmosphere is Manchester at its best. Fun and glamorous with a superb soundtrack, ranging from re-spun hip-hop classics to not-too-intrusive disco and house.
The food? Think of your favourite brasserie classics, then turn the dial up a few notches. Everything is effortlessly executed. No fuss, no airs and graces, just great food.
The burrata is a fantastic summertime option: bright basil, lively Isle of Wight tomatoes and delicate creamy cheese, making a textural delight when teamed with the crunchy sourdough.
The beef tartare is another treat, thanks to the freshly cut cubes of beef. The little swirl of egg yolk helps, and the home-cooked crisps reveal a quiet commitment to making sure everything has that Maya touch.
Special mention to the whole plaice, which is, indeed, an enormous fish, enough for two. The white fish meat is soft and buttery, and there’s just enough of the sauce (made from capers, lemon and shallots) to add the required amount of zing.
Refreshingly, in an era of outlandish and near-inedible burgers (remember the gold leaf craze?), the Maya Burger is nothing too audacious – it does its job and does it well. Each mouthful is a big satisfying hit of delicious salty pleasure, while the house relish is a pleasingly tangy addition.
For desserts, go for one of the two most season-appropriate options. First, the wild strawberry, plus wonderfully cold yoghurt and BABA with a neat sesame bundle on top, as well as some teeny tiny flowers, purely for show but that’s the point. It’s nice to look at nice things.
Or there’s the equally light peach parfait, paired with a crunchy almond praline and some delicate almond sorbet. It’s an unusual combination of flavours that combine well, and further showcase the deft touch of the kitchen team.
Maya’s brasserie is a tip-top summer destination. On a sunny evening, it could be one of Manchester’s best places to kick back with a cocktail, watching the city’s great and good parade down Canal Street – or the perfect place to rev yourself up to join them.
