Louis Restaurant
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Louis is the latest addition to Manchester from the team behind the mighty Tattu and the just-as-mighty Fenix. Here the concept is a little different. First rule, no phones and no photos (hence the lack of hi-res pics below). Second rule, dress up a little – think elegant, not straight-from-the-gym.
And that’s what makes it stick out among its Deansgate neighbours. Rather than simply another fancy sit-down restaurant, Louis is a dressed-up dining experience with live music and a here-and-now vibe. No one’s sat here bored, flicking through their phone, everyone’s engaging with each other, the staff, the music – even dancing on the seats at weekends.
No one’s sat here bored, flicking through their phone
Everything is the very best it can possibly be – as you’d expect from the team behind Spinningfield’s top two restaurants. The singers are up there with the city’s best, effortlessly belting out jazz standards and pop hits, while what the waiting staff don’t know isn’t worth knowing.
The look and feel is Goodfellas-meets-Twin Peaks, without all that pesky crime. Think red velvet curtains and woozy flooring – when you walk to the loos you’ll feel like you’re tripping, in both senses of the word.
The food is upscale Italian-American – hearty and filling, but also refined. It’s a menu that should appeal to all palates, geared towards those special nights out. If in doubt, go for the signature dishes – especially the osso buco alla Milanese, if you’re a meat-eater.
This is a hefty veal shank, slow-cooked in a cast iron casserole until it’s about to crumble, resting on a buttery pile of saffron and Parmigiano risotto. It’s big, bold and rich, like Louis itself.
The veal shank is big, bold and rich, like Louis itself
Don’t be startled by the name, the rigatoni alla vodka has a dash of the Russian spirit added to the San Marzano tomato sauce, but only to add an edge, not overpower. The al dente rigatoni is a treat, but the crisped-up pieces of pork cheeks are the star of the show, elevating the dish into something special.
And that’s but two of the dishes. Elsewhere you’ll find a whole bunch of dishes you’ve heard on The Sopranos, such as eggplant parmigiana and Panzanella, but if you’re feeling especially Tony, there’s a Wagy beef burger or a 1KG tomahawk steak.
In short, Louis is ideal for date-night or mates-night. Or if you have a particularly up-for-it family, get the lot out and kick back for a night of fancy food and old-school Rat Pack-style fun.
