James Martin Manchester
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
He might be a big-name TV star, but James Martin keeps his showpiece restaurant in Manchester in tip-top condition. It runs like a well-oiled grilling machine, serving up hearty portions to locals and visitors alike.
And that’s where this new pre-theatre menu comes in. It’s geared at people coming into the city to enjoy at one of the many city centre theatres. It’s for people who want to make an evening of it by enjoying some grand food and equally grand drinks, before popping off to watch some talented folk tread the boards.
James Martin Manchester is especially ideal for this, as it’s a few hops, a couple of steps and one jump from esteemed venues such as Opera House, Palace Theatre, Royal Exchange Theatre and HOME, to name but a few.
However, a good pre-theatre menu needs to tick a few boxes. First, timing. Bookings are available from 5 pm, which gives enough time to have three courses and a couple of drinks before the curtain goes up. The staff are, to put it lightly, on it. They’re fast, friendly and efficient and you need not worry about making it out in time.
Then there’s price. How does two courses for £25 strike you? Hell, add another, make it £31. For such a respected restaurant, this is a bargain indeed. And the drinks prices aren’t bad either.
Finally, and most importantly, the food. As we as all know, big Jimmy is famed for his approach to butter – basically, more of it, and don’t stop. It’s a simple trick and we’re all for it.
The potato and leek soup is flawless: thick and creamy, with a scatter of chives, while the chicken liver parfait is a classic opener, made with high-quality offal, covered with an unusual but not unwelcome sweet and sour plum gelatin coating.
The mains showcase the best of Martin: traditional British cooking, with a modern slant. The roast breast of Cheshire chicken is a particular favourite, thanks to a wonderful thyme chicken jus, while the grilled hake is a beautiful fillet of fish, paired with an excellent butterbean and red pepper cassoulet.
Pleasingly, James’s famed sticky date pudding is on the menu, but it’s the passionfruit cheesecake that’s worth a special mention. First put together by a junior member of the kitchen team, it received such rave reviews that it roared up the rankings, earning a place on this menu. And it’s delicious – an inspired combination of mascarpone, mango and mint salsa and mango sorbet.
But while the food is rich and delicious, it’s made with the theatre in mind, meaning it never strays into ‘too full’ territory. It’s hearty and filling, but not to a fault. So relax, there’s no risk of dozing off while Othello kills Desdemona or snoring as Jason Donovan belts out ‘Any Dream Will Do’.
