Fenix
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Since opening in late 2023, Greek restaurant Fenix has been a roaring success, and it’s not hard to see why. The decor combines traditional craftsmanship with innovative touches – much like modern Manchester. That means rustic stone arches, ears of corn in the ceiling and elaborate fire mirages above the bar. It’s a beautiful place to simply sit and be.
All well and good, but how’s the food? Not to worry, Fenix comes from the same stable as Tattu, one of Manchester’s standout restaurants when it comes to fancy furnishing and fine dining. A team of top Greek chefs were recruited to design and cook the dishes, leading to a menu full of large and small plates, tied together in a series of well-paced set menus.
In brief, it’s a luxury experience that never feels fussy or fusty. It’s a vibrant meal served by equally dynamic and knowledgeable staff, and it’s a fair bet that no other Greek restaurant in the UK is doing anything close to this.
Case in point, if you fancy a dramatic drink downstairs before your meal, go for the Fallen From Olympus. It serves two, and comes in a jaw-dropping volcano-style construction that billows smoke all over your table. Think Mount Olympus meets Castle Grayskull, all based around two exceptional drinks. A two act epic in cocktail form, indeed.
The menu lives up to this, and then some. In the Greek Nostos set menu, the early, lighter ‘chapters’ range from pillow-soft pita bread, pulled from the charcoal grill seconds before it arrives at your table; to potent hot and spicy smoky meatballs with a contrasting coriander yoghurt.
Best of all are the chicken souvlaki, aka mini-kebabs. Freshly grilled dark chicken meat on a little pita, with some oregano sauce and crispy potato. Fold it up and wolf it down – this is a meal geared around fun, pleasure and time-honoured flavours.
The beef paccheri is one of the city’s finest pasta dishes – and something of a viral sensation out there in social media-land. Large tubes of fresh pasta, covered with chunks of short rib (slow-cooked with grape molasses, no less), finished off with a handful of Metsovone smoked cheese in snazzy mousse form.
Aside from the looming langoustine, the orzo dish isn’t one of the most spectacular-looking dishes, but the flavour profile is deeper than the Mariana Trench. Never before has orzo been cooked in a seafood stock so rich and satisfying. The rice-shaped pasta is soft and sticky and crumbles of feta add a little zing – simple but unforgettable.
The smoked Iberico ribs feel like a statement piece. Sizzling hot and coated with a sweet, sticky sauce, plus a scoop of sweet potato puree – the flavours are up there with the best, sure, but the true glory of this rustic dish comes from the quality of the meat and the smoke infusion from the grill.
When it comes to dessert, the baklava looks like it’s been touched by the hand of Zeus. It’s a beautifully arranged combination of textures – all crunchy angles and barely-there foam, with rich but not-too-sweet honey aromas running through the lot.
Similarly, the chocolate creme brulee is a masterpiece of balance. A touch of coffee ice cream here, a light dab of cinnamon crumble there, all dancing on a slim wheel of high-grade chocolate kréma.
Fenix is a wonderful addition to the Manchester food scene, and the closest thing to a mythical Greek banquet you’re ever likely to find. It’s all about rustic dishes that have been tried and tested for centuries, brought into 2024 thanks to the skill and inventiveness of the expert kitchen team. A must-try on every level.
