Isca Wines
Ian Jones, Food and Drink Editor
Isca has been a Levenshulme fixture for years, but due to the usual landlord shenanigans (who’d have guessed!) had to move out with short notice. Happily, the story ends well, as these new premises are bigger, better and much more in keeping with Isca’s refined spirit. It’s now just a few steps from Levenshulme’s finest: Nordie, The Talleyrand, Station South and haircutters extraordinaire Barber & Co.
Both wine and food menus are small and ever-changing to suit the season. Intrigued by natural wine but not sure where to begin? Let the staff flex their muscles and choose for you, based on your preferences, chosen dish or seasonality. Hell, ask them to choose based on the magnetic pull of the earth and they’ll probably know the best orange wine for the job.
In our case, the lychee-tinged Demoiselle 2022, from Alsace, delivers exactly what we want from a natural orange wine, and does so with a scrumpy-style kick. Similarly, the bracingly dry Verdeca 2021 from Puglia, Italy, is a sharp, citrus-heavy sip – exactly what’s needed on a grey February evening.
The food slots neatly into the growing elegant-casual category of Manchester dining. Think Flawd, Erst and Sparrows – beautiful small-to-large plates, with little flourishes that elevate them above the rest.
The sprouts dish is a delicious brush-off to winter, combining cauliflower, pomegranate seeds, sesame, mint and other bright, hardy ingredients. It’s a cleverly put-together vegan dish with flavours that you may not have tried before but work wonders together.
But the oyster mushroom dish takes the crown. Slices of soft, meaty fungi, resting on a creamy bed made from Jerusalem artichoke, and dabbed with a zingy, tangy gremolata. A wonderful mix of texture and seasonal ideas.
In olden times, the word ‘Isca’ meant ‘flowing water’. Here, it’s all about flowing wine, and exquisite meat-free dishes. (No Jesus required.)
