Blanconero

Salford Quays: Manchester’s Riviera. Maybe the weather is a big give-away, but if you close your eyes (and sit inside) you could almost be in Italy. 

2 years ago, Alessandro Rizzi did as the Romans do, and came to conquer Salford. He & Gavin Williams set up Blanconero as a coffee shop – the original site is still operating out of Anchorage Quay. With the locals satisfied by their Italo-centric coffee, they’ve opened a second site in Mediacity, now offering a food menu that’s ambitious in size and transportive in taste. 

I do judge a place by its bread. Unapologetically. I think there’s scope for a Manchester review series that awards ratings on bread alone. When that happens, Blanconero might make top of the list. The focaccia is made in-house, daily. 

‘It comes out of the oven around 11am, so when you’re buying your lunch at 12, it’s most likely the freshest sandwich you’ve ever bought! Alessandro and Steffania (our focaccia queen) tried and tested many recipes until we found exactly what we were looking for’. 

We get the focaccia with pistachio mortadella, mozzarella, and pesto. The focaccia is, I imagine, an Italian’s equivalent to that signature roast potato that you’ve nailed after years of practice. Fluffy insides, crispy exterior, and whole flakes of sea salt overhead. It tastes like time, work, and passion have been sunk into it. And the pesto-pistachio combination is an age-old winner. 

We also get the lasagne with spicy Calabrian sausage, smoked scarmoza cheese and nduja. Although, this almost doesn’t happen, as the lasagne menu is the largest I’ve ever seen. 

‘We have eaten a lot of lasagne to get to where we are today with the menu’. 

With a staggering seven different lasagnes to choose from, making a decision is a task that requires either time, pre-planning, or pure strength. Or maybe I just regret not getting them all. 

‘The idea actually came from Alessandro’s mother when visiting Manchester a few years ago. We always wanted to offer something you can’t get anywhere else, and the lasagnes really are unique. We’re always trying to come up with new ideas – even our Valentine’s Tiramisu we’re launching next week is a mix of flavours never seen before in Tiramisu… we’re always thinking of what to do next and how we can offer something different.’ 

The cannolis at Blanconero are a bit of a scene-stealer. They seem innocuous; we’ve all seen a cannoli before. But just get one. They’re only little – but they come in swinging with huge flavour. 

We settle on both the pistachio and salted caramel – both wrapped in a sweet and nutty pastry. It’s one of those pastries you can’t fake. Pre-packaged or supermarket equivalents have their own charm, but they’re a completely different item. Blanconero’s cannoli is sweet pastry that takes itself seriously. 

The coffee, of course, is perfect. It’s what Gavin and Alessandro started with. It’s the reason all these lasagnes are here. I get an espresso, as well as my latte, just to double check. The result is one that the most hair-splitting Italian would be pleased with. 

It seems Blanconero’s fidelity to Italian food doesn’t hold them back from expanding palates. Like Picasso, they nailed the basics early on, so that they can now play with more inventive re-imaginings of the classics. It’s both an homage and a look into the future. What have the Romans ever done for us? The answer: lots and lots of lasagne.